Modded controller FAQ
This drifting is a side effect of the snapback reduction mod, and requires you to reset the controller every time you plug it in. After resetting, the controller will function normally. To reset your controller in any Smash game, hold X and Y, then press and hold Start. Let go of all 3 buttons after 5 seconds, and your controller will be reset.
Snapback reduction ensures that your aerial neutral B inputs go the intended direction. As a bonus, this mod also helps with perfect pivots for Smash Wii U players. This mod involves soldering a capacitor to the X-value potentiometer of the analog stick. The capacitor can be easily replaced in the future, or removed entirely, without any soldering necessary.
The shield drop mod does not entail making a new notch in the shell, but rather adjusting the existing SE/SW notches of the stick gate. We aim for our shield drop mods to leave the faceplate looking as close to stock as possible, but if you look closely you can usually see where the notches were adjusted.
It depends on what you value. If you need consistent “flick method” pivots, you should generally use a new Smash 4 controller. If you’re looking for good dashback but don’t require consistent pivots throughout the lifespan of the controller, 2008 JP Whites will be ideal. Purple, silver, and black used controllers are somewhere in between but come at a cheaper price point. Unfortunately, used purple/silver/black controllers (and occasionally JP Whites) will have higher variability in comparison to brand new Smash 4 controllers, and may come with small mechanical or aesthetic blemishes. MCC will refurbish used controllers to the best of our ability.
Unfortunately, due to the nature of these mechanics, we cannot guarantee that any of our modded controllers have good dashback (new or used). New controllers are not expected to develop good dashback until at least 6 months of use, but in general, this comes down to the luck of the draw.
No. Button shortening is a preference-based mod, which can improve the tactile feedback of the ABXY buttons. The buttons functional nearly identically to unmodified buttons, so the benefits are primarily comfort-based. We do typically angle the edges of the A, B, and Y buttons towards each other to help with the ergonomics of the ABXY setup, but the difference is minor compared to stock buttons.
We are not currently offering bottom-shortened buttons as we have not yet found a satisfactory way of shortening from the bottom without causing a “wobbling” effect. Additionally, bottom-shortened buttons can have inconsistencies from the filing process that can cause undesired performance and reliability.
We use low grit sandpaper to shorten the tops of the buttons, and finish them with fine-grade steel wool to ensure a smooth finish. This does, of course, come with the side effect of removing the engravings on the top of each button. MCC are currently the only modders offering this mod, which has received a huge amount of positive feedback.
Both of these trigger mods accomplish the same goal: reducing the amount of distance in the analog portion of the L/R buttons before hitting a “hard press”. The difference lies in where the distance is reduced: in max trigger height reduction, the default resting position of the trigger is lower, where as in digital press height elevation the default resting position remains the same but the “floor” of the trigger is raised.
For Melee players, we recommend either of these mods for the trigger you use to wavedash in order to reduce the strain on your fingers. These mods can also help with powershielding by reducing the likelihood of accidentally light shielding during attempted powershields, but removing the spring is a more effective mod for that purpose.
First off, if you play Smash 4 at all, this game reads the analog L and R inputs, not the digital press, so the spring is absolutely required.
For Melee, if you wavedash and powershield with a trigger but do not do L-cancels or light shields with this trigger, spring removal can work to reduce strain and improve powershield consistency. Additionally, some find that removing the trigger helps to increase wavedash distance, but your mileage may vary.
Wavedash notches are not intended to be “perfect” wavedash notches, simply “extended” wavedashes. However, you must fully press the control stick against the shell in order to get the benefit of the notch. In general, this mod is only recommended if you are comfortable with relearning your wavedash technique. Also, note that extended wavedash notches also serve as firefox notches for the “slightly below horizontal” angle.
Currently, these mods are legal at all major tournaments. Be advised that with the rapid changes in the controller modding scene lately, this may potentially change in the future.
You can get effective notches on all four quadrants of the stick gate (N, S, E, W) but most players prefer notches for the top half only. These will allow you to get angles slightly off of North, and angles slightly upwards from East/west. By forgoeing the lower notches, the shield drop notches (modded or stock) are generally kept smooth and more consistent.
This mod slightly reduces the spring tension in the analog stick in order to speed up the process of “breaking in” the controller. This is only offered for brand new controllers.